#每天读一点服装史# MANTUAS AND PETTICOATS

1681 - 1720

MANTUAS AND PETTICOATS

From the 1680s the mantua became the chief item of women's dress, with a linen smock or shift remaining as the main undergarment.

A full-length, coatlike garment with elbow-length sleeves, the mantua was worn over the stiffened bodice and skirt of earlier periods.

Closed from neck to waist, the sides and back were folded up and secured at the waistline to reveal the skirt below.

To fit beneath the mantua, the bodice had straps instead of sleeves and was formed like a corset.

It opened down the center back with a lace closure and was still long and stiffened and cut low on the chest.

The petticoat was full and gathered in at the waistline.

By the 1690s the top part of the mantua was worn open to show the bodice.

Mantuas

Mantuas


STAYS AND STOMACHER

Stays or bodices, still an essential part of women's dress, were made of whalebone stitched between two layers of buckram, a stiffened linen fabric.

Bodices were often covered with embroidered silk; a decorated panel, or stomacher, might be worn over the top for further embellishment or contrast.

Stays


公元1681 - 1720年

MANTUA外套与PETTICOAT衬裙

十七世纪80年代,mantua曼图亚长袍成为女装的首要单品,搭配亚麻衫作为主要内衣。

这款拖地长度,袖长到手肘的外套式样的mantua曼图亚,早期时候罩在僵硬胸衣与长裙外面。

从颈部到腰部收紧,侧面与背部做折叠的处理,腰线以下露出裙子。

为了贴合曼图亚的穿着,上衣用带子替换了袖子,使之形成紧身胸衣的样子。

它的设计是在后背中间打开,以抽带收紧闭合,款型仍旧细长僵硬,领口开得很低。

衬裙饱满,腰线处聚集了褶子。

到了十七世纪90年代,mantua曼图亚的顶部在穿着时是打开的,以显示优美的上身曲线。

曼图亚

曼图亚


STAYS胸衣与STOMACHER胸片

Stays胸衣或者BODICES胸衣,仍旧是女装的重要组成部分,它由两层硬衬布,一层硬亚麻,中间加鱼骨缝制固定。

胸衣常以丝绸绣花做表面;一款装饰性胸衣,会在顶部露出一截作为点缀或对比。

装饰胸片Stomacher

Stomacher效果图
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